9/11/2023 0 Comments Celebrity edge dining menusTurnover was high in the kitchen, but front-of-house staff stayed forever. Waitstaff made up to $75,000 per year, while cooks made $30,000. In 2012, Cyrus had more than 56 employees, a model Keane says was entirely unsustainable. It’s sustenance.” In the decade since closing his original Cyrus in Healdsburg, Keane has been obsessed with fixing fine dining’s most broken limb-an equitable wage structure. “And it starts with the press talking about chefs like they’re gods, the truth is that we’re skilled labor. “We’re too full of ourselves,” Keane says. Keane is more worried about livable wages for his staff than prancing around the kitchen with a chef ’s toque. It can be easy to poke fun at some of the pomp surrounding exquisitely sourced, self-consciously described meals: Is a deconstructed plate of imported Japanese uni with cheese “snow” on dehydrated wonton crumbs better than a $5 crab puff at the local Chinese restaurant? After all, it’s just food, as chef Douglas Keane of Geyserville’s Cyrus restaurant likes to remind people. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) The new model Sparkling wine and oysters in the bubble room at Cyrus in Geyserville. At a time when eating fast food at a desk is normal and many everyday restaurants have resorted to pre-cooked, pre-packaged ingredients, fine dining experiences remind us that food can be magical. It all just depends on what tickles your happy button. But for those who seek it out, it’s a meaningful luxury experience, no different than such indulgences as $899 Taylor Swift VIP concert tickets, $65 for infant Nike sneakers, or $90,000 for a Maserati. It’s the joy of a perfectly seared piece of meaty Liberty duck with salty, crackling skin and a thin layer of unctuous fat that floods my brain with endorphins, the meticulous sourcing of a single perfect oyster, the history behind a tiny cup of mussel soup inspired by one served at Maxim’s in Paris.Įxtraordinarily lofty dining like this, with wine and gratuity, can come with a price tag of $1,800 for two people. Chefs create singular experiences for diners, offering curated culinary journeys and sublimely plated food.Īs a restaurant reviewer, I will always believe there’s a place for this type of experience. In Sonoma County, restaurants like Cyrus, SingleThread, Farmhouse Inn, and Madrona Manor have long been seen as the epitome of fine dining. (Chad Surmick / The Press Democrat) Fine dining is dead. Aged gouda, pear, pretzel and mustard are plated for service by Chef Doug Keane at Cyrus in Geyserville. 59% of fine dining restaurateurs say they offer fewer menu items now than in 2019.57% of fine dining restauranteurs say they’re still short-staffed. In 2023, 39% of fine dining restaurateurs say it will still take another year or more for business to return to pre-pandemic levels.On average, 41% of sales at a fine dining restaurant come from travelers. Fine dining restaurants are more reliant on visitor travel than other dining establishments.89% of fine dining restaurateurs say high food costs are a “significant” challenge.
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